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Ingrid and Marcel World Journey

The Blog for the famous Journey around the world of Ingrid and Marcel

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Category: Around the world
After passing the border from Thailand to Laos we found a “taxi” and headed out directly north to the mountains. Once at desnitation, a small city surrounded by jungle and forest, we checked out the trekking possibilities (2 days, 3 days, rafting down a river, etc.) and having unfortunately little time in Laos opted for a 2 days/1 night guided trek.
We had to be at 8:30 in the trekking office to store our extra backpack and material and pack the provided water bottles, so we decided to go for breakfast at the same place we were the night before (right in front of the trekking office), despite a not too good dinner. Luckily the morning food was better. After a baguette (Laos is an old French colony) and scrambled eggs we crossed the street and at 9:00 we hopped in a minivan and a driver took us and our guide to a village about 30 mintues away. There we put our raincoats on and started the trek with the guide and a young man from this village as a “sherpa”. Luckily for us, it stopped raining a few minutes later. On the way the guide showed us all the edible and similar looking not edible plants in the rainforest. After a short while our guide stopped and talked in Laotian to the young villager who disappeared in the jungle with his machette. We heard branches being shaken, then chop chopping sounds and again leaves being moved, and after less then 5 minutes the young man came back out with 3 perfectly cut bamboo walking sticks.
The first hour was quite steep up (about 300m change in altitude) but afterwards more level, just a nice walk in the forest. For lunch there was a little shelter with two benches and a small table all made of split bamboo. We took the leaches off our shoes and in the meanwhile the young local guy disappeared again in the forest to come back with beautiful banana leaves to use as a table cloth. The lunch was spread out directly onto the leaves: sticky rice which we made into flat balls with our fingers to scoop up mixed vegetables and chicken and a cricket sauce, which I tried and found to be crunchy and spicy but good. Afterwords Ingrid told me she saw some parts in it like legs. (If I had seen those before…) The one hour rest was actually good, because of the first part steep uphill. The local guy left us to go back to his village and we went further up and down across rivers until we arrived in the evening in the village to stay overnight. The bungalow dedicated to us was located between the village and the river, a bit outside of the villagers‘ houses. We actually arrived on the second day of a marriage where the whole village celebrates the event for three days (The most important and the actual marriage is the first day).

Since there is no way to tell the people in the village some tourists will come today our arrival was somewhat of a surprise. Past the first akward moment of arriving on a wedding day it became more normal to be there. The kids of corse started right away to play around us, the tiny little dogs and pigs as well. First we took off our boots and sat down on a wood bench to rest a bit.

One woman from the village prepared the dinner and we sat down to eat with this women, her husband and the village’s wise man, had some LAO LAO a riceshnaps with quite a bit of alcohol. The way they drink it is fill a glass, give it to one person, this one needs to empty the glass and give it back. then the same glass will be filled again and handed to the next person around the table. If you don’t want anymore you hand it directly to the next and everyone will laugh at you for pass it over. The wise man asked us to sing a song in our language, then sang one in laotian and was laughing more and more. After the bottle was finished he asked to join him in his tent to drink some more, but we refused and went to sleep.

The next morning we woke up and had some rice for breakfast, went to the village to watch the water installation made of bamboo-pipes, the feeding of the little piggies, and could see how two women were pounding the rice with big logs of wood.

Then we started our second day through the jungle following the river for 1 or 2 hours, again with people from the village carriyng our lunch. At the point where the path ends in the front of the river was a cord from one side to the other and a bamboo-float on the other side. Our guide yelled and there was an answer from the other side. After a while someone came and crossed the river with the float to our side. Then it was our turn, we climbed aboard, but just Ingrid, me and our guide could go on it at the same time. The two from the village waved goodbye and we started to cross the river, feet in the water because of the overweight 🙂 The crossing was wicked but cool. On the other end we hopped on the slippery rocks where I tried to help the guide to come up and slipped the down the rock in the river… Yeah cool, wet feet for the rest of the day. The walk now was a lot of up and down, some short rests and a lot of water drinking. We made again a 1 hour lunch break and were really happy to arrive in the evening, again in front of a river seeing the road and a village on the other side. Two little boys where already waiting with a pirogue (Einbaum) to cross the river and earn some money. Our driver was also waiting on the other side and we drove one hour back to the trekking office.

We went to look for a room to sleep, a little dinner and slept quick, deep and well.

 

 

 

We were tired the other night when we arrived back from Kings Canyon. So we didn’t go shopping, we thought we’d eat leftovers for dinner and cereal for breakfast the next morning.

Well the next morning when I took the cereal bag out of the cupboard, the cereal was not edible. Why? For the second time on this trip, a mouse had found ist way (probably through the battery cable from the engine) into the van and in the dishes cupboard. What happens when the mouse gets in there? We need to get everything out and scrub and soap every plate, mug, cup and plastic container. The thing is, we store the mueesli in the same cupboard, it fits nicely on the side of the cups and plates. Last time we had only dishes in there but our little visitor was so hungry she had munched away at the plastic (bite marks to prove it!), this time she was more lucky, we had a big bag or mueesli in there, she only needed to bite through the plastic bag and help herself to nice and crunchy cereal. She has taste too, found the one whole almond in the bag and took it out for herself.

So we cleaned everything up and thought our problem was solved like it was last time, a one-time visit thing. Well that was disregarding the colony of cute little field mice trooping around the campground at night, who made it in the van again the following evening, found the bread underneath the seat and had a nice midnight snack. And this time there was not only one or two droppings in the now empty cupboard….there was 10-15…..so it was not only one visitor, she had called all her friends and organised a clandestine party in our van!

Again a clean up….and we drove off to the mountains where we camped at a semi-wild place (had dingos yowling and walking 5 meters away from us, cool). Since we had no electricity there we had no fan, which means we could hear all the nightly noises….especially the mice trying to make it to the bread hidden in another cupboard we thought was mouse-proof. Fun fun fun! Laying in bed hearing them run around and not able to do anything about it. Needless to say, the cupboard was not mouse-proof, these beasts are so small they can squeeze themselves into 5mm slits!

By then we figured they were not only night visitors but had actually taken up residence in our van. Probably getting cosy in our clothes or in the folds of the towels…. So back in Alice Springs we called Alice Pest Control and got some baits: you set them up, wait for the mice to eat some and 4 or 5 days later they die. Just wonderful: how exactly are you supposed to know if and when they die and find the corpses?? It’s been 3 days and we still have to do today’s bait check to see if they have taken bites out of them, but we’re secretely hoping they left the car already.

Now we left Alice Springs to go north direction Darwin and stopped inTennant Creek for the night. Popped the roof up, plugged the power in, and went for a much needed swim. Came back to the car….and noticed some ants crawling on the power cable….looked closer….and saw it was actually mass immigration! Hundreds of ants were coming on to the van, walking from the ground on the cable and up on the roof, around the hatch to the other side, to the front of the car and on the windshield rubber. Noooooooooooo! I turned into a mass murderer. At first with kleenex or baby fresh, but then cold bloodedly squishing them with my bare fingers one after the other. Of course we moved the cable so it didn’t touch the ground anymore and they stopped coming, but the harm was already done. We cleaned as best we could and crossed our fingers they’d stay outside of the van. Ha. Ha. Ha. Yeah right. The next morning they had made it into the one mouse-proof cupboard we have and started to invade various cracks and ledges. They are so small they make it anywhere. We bought bug spray at the camping to try and limit the damage and as soon as we got to Katherine stopped to buy new ant traps (Marcel got rid of the old ones the morning before!). And now we’re trying to control they path while waiting for them to eat the poison and bring it back to wherever they chose to build their house. The idiots started to eat the mouse poison too. Double dosis, there you go.

The Red Center of Australia. We will not forget. Got some mouse in Alice Springs and ants in Tennant Creek. Lovely.

 

These flies are driving me crazy. Small stupid bugging flies, which aim straight at your face/head, specifically its openings, i.e. nose, eyes, mouth and ears. No mosquitos though, although I must say I’m not sure which I would prefer. At least the mosquitos here leave your face alone and head for your legs. It’s really a funny thing I’ve been noticing since we’re on this side of the planet: Asian and Australian mosquitos don’t buzz around your head and bite you in the back of the neck or in the juicy place behind the ears like Canadian mosquitos do, they go for your feet and legs. Really it’s true, and I’ve been wondering what is with them. If anybody can give me a clue, please do.
Right now we’re both rather tired. It’s about a gazillion degrees and we got up at 5h00 this morning to go watch the sun rise over Uluru (formerly know as Ayer’s rock) and Kata Tjuta (the Olgas, a serie of massive rock formations about 35 km from Uluru). We watched the light come up on the horizon and reflect on the rocks and then headed out for a hike in the Valley of the Winds. After lunch we visited the cultural center where the aboriginal legends surrounding the area are explained, and now we’re kaputti and warmi. Oh yeah, we also have clothes on the line drying, which we will need to shake out well before puting them away because the washing machine was full of wings (the big bugs I took out before starting the wash). That’s another interesting phenomenon here, the wings. I think they are termites actually, and some places there are petazillions of them. If you happen to be driving, well, they crash into your windshield and the whole front of the car. Sometimes there are so many it sounds like rain, and then you can barely see out of the window. Or on the campground they get out at night and go crazy around the lights (typical bug-drug usage), and then they fall on the floor and die, and the ants come and get the corpses but leave the wings there. So when you walk there’s some “fluff” flying around,which is a pile of wings. And now you know why we’ll shake our clothes.
 

 

 

After meeting Nemo and Dora on the reef (I know, should write more about this once) and seeing the platypus on the tablelands, it was slowly time for us to move inland. So we got up one morning and set out for the long drive to the red center of Australia.
We had heard about a cyclone being on ist way and expected to hit the coast 4 days later, but as we drove away the forecast became more dramatic: this one was gaining force and was said to be the worst cyclone to hit Queensland since records are kept. Whole areas were being evacuated, even the whole hospital in Cairns was transferred to Brisbane by plane! On the radio there were messages to the population, telling people to barricade and make supplies of food and water, they were getting ready for an immense natural catastrophe. And we were thinking: oh my, were we lucky to leave the area before this! But this system was so big it did not slowly dissolve inland like a “standard” cyclone, from a strength 5 (on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 meaning winds of around 300km/h) on the coast it kept on going west, still provoking massive rains and 150km/h winds over 500 km away from the coast. And the further away we drove, the further away the weather warnings were being issued….we had Yazi on our a….! So we kept on driving….not that there would be a lot to do between Cairns and Alice Springs, but this was an extra incentive to go west, because the storm was gaining terrain on us. Finally we reached Alice Springs, and then the storm passed….and went around the city. We are 2 lucky campers.

 

 

We are out of the cyclone hitting point by about 900 km west in the outback. Especially for mom/Francoise we are fine…

We expect a bit of wind at max.

When the first settlers came to Australia they discovered on the east coast of the new continent an until then unheard of animal. It measured about 50cm, had a brown fur coat, webbed feet like those of an otter and a flat long nose like a duck. It could not be classified as a mammal, and although it laid eggs it was neither a bird nor a reptile. It was so peculiar the first European scientists who received drawings and a dried skin thought it could not be born as is, some believed it must have been put together by an Asian taxidermist and closely examined it, looking for seam marks.

Some specimen were then conserved in spirits and sent back to the old world, where in 1799 the English scientist George Shaw gave it the name platypus anatinus (platypus being derived from Greek and meaning flat foot, anatinus meaning duck-like) . It was then discovered that the word platypus already belonged to a type of beetle and could not be used. Independently the animal had been described as an ornithorhyncus (Greek for bird-snout) paradoxus in 1800 by Johann Blumenbach. In order to respect the rules of priority the animal was recognised as an ornithorhyncus anatinus.

Why am I telling you all this? Because after weeks of hoping, after being unable to observe them in the Eungella National Park at Christmas (the access road was flooded) and hours of patient searching: yesterday I saw a platypus. He dove up about 3 meters in front of us and showed us his cute face with ist incredible bill and his twin looking tail and slowly swam away.

Ornithorhyncus paradoxus. Isn’t it the best animal name you’ve ever heard?

 

We come to Australia once in our lives, and what happens?? They get flooded!

However we do live a good life: we escaped the closed roads and flooded cities by a week. It’s funny to watch the news and see the town we were in just a short while back completely swimmimg in water…. thinking that the campsite we stayed at was directly by the river, picture our super campervan floating around with us in it…. Lucky we are.

Actually we haven’t had this much sunshine since we arrived in Australia. The first month and a half we had cold and rain, with a peak at Christmas (we basically spent the time under a tarp in front of our van) when it rained non-stop for 3 days, but since then the days are hot and sunny, with the odd refreshing shower in the night. And this is the tropics, we’re supposed to be in the rain season!

The only effect of the floodings we can feel is the lack of fresh items at the grocery store: no more vegetables except the old potato, just old cuts of meat, half empty shelves everywhere. It’s OK, noodles are also good 🙂

 

My friend Valerie wrote me in an e-mail she thought for sure we were having a different Christmas. We definitely are! It’s summer here: no snow or cold, only green and warmth, so despite the decorations, the Christmas carols playing in the supermarket and people running around the shops, I can’t say we really are in the Christmas spirit.

We are currently in a national park on the east coast somewhere between Brisbane and Cairns, and it’s been raining on and off since about 3 weeks. Actually the Australians haven’t seen this much rain since about 20 years. In the last 2 days it was pouring enough to drench the hinterland, causing rivers and creeks to overflow and roads to be blocked over kilometers. And we thought we were coming to Australia for an extended summer treat…. Well summer it is, but slowly we are getting sticky and stinky. Our van is pretty much rain proof (except for one spot in the back but no problem it’s on  Marcel’s side of the bed), but nothing ever really dries. I washed one of my t-shirts 4 days ago and it’s still humid. Remember I have only 2 t-shirts and one shirt, so I’m sort of short on fresh clothes. Then again, our standards have lowered since we’re on the road, the great advantage being that we don’t wonder what to wear today, we just grab yesterday’s clothes and put them back on. Oh yes, it’s so wet that we are having ants inside our campervan, the poor things (!) having flooded nests outside. We still haven’t figured out how they made it there, but still had to install some traps. Good thing it’s only the small black ants, not the red ones with a green bum (I can’t say if they’re biting or anything, they just give me the creeps because of their colour) (I never thought I could be accused of racism, but I must admit, I am bug racist).

So back to Christmas…. We arrived here on the 24th and got into our bathing suits to install our awning under the pouring rain. Afterwards we went down to the beach and met a nice couple who invited us for Christmas lunch with their family the next day. Luckily we each had a clean shirt left so after a shower and a shave for Marcel we looked presentable enough to go introduce ourselves to the whole family (12 of them). We had a really good time, they were all very nice and welcoming, and even organised extra presents so we could participate in their gift exchange. We went back home with a stomach full of ham, potato salad, trifle and Christmas pudding and some scented candles and chocolates. Marcel made a Christmas tree for our camper with tropical plants branches in a PET bottle, which I decorated with candy wrappers, and we opened a bottle of sparkling wine before dinner. Later on we set out to watch a movie (an old John Wayne found for 2$ at the store) on our new laptop. We sat outside with our earphones on and turned off the light to avoid having bugs flying around and better see the screen. After about an hour of watching we hear a noise around the camper, something like a “thump” somewhere. We take off the earphones and listen, nothing, so we go on with the movie. Ten minutes later again a “bang” noise. We turn on the light….to find a possum munching away inside the van!! The little bugger climbed in and found the bowl with apricots on the counter and dropped it on the floor when he grabbed them (the “thump” noise….). Now how do we get him out of there?? Clapping hands? No effect. Marcel going in and wooshing him away? No effect. The poor guy looks really cute and actually quite
lost in there…. Marcel finally got him out by climbing into the front of the car and showing him the way out from there leaning over the seats. Too bad I didn’t have the camera in my pocket. So yes, we did have a different Christmas 🙂

 

 

 

VIDEO  (click here)